For more than two decades, Juana Ruiz has prepared the famous “enmielados” sweet glazed fruits that in the ’80s were very popular among the Mazatlecos
Mazatlan Sinanoa.- Transit through the Center of Mazatlan takes you back in time to those its streets, buildings and the harvest that is offered there. And it is that among that “sea of people” that runs through its streets every day, you can perceive a sweet smell that calls for the nostalgia of many adults.
That aroma that in the ’80s was very peculiar in the house of the Mazatlecos, is none other than that of the unforgettable Cocoyoles.
This sweet persists over time in a position located between the streets Aquiles Serdán and Melchor Ocampo; there is Juana Ruiz, a 50-year-old woman who offers Cocoyoles to those who stop her transit, motivated by the smell they give off.
I have been producing them for more than 20 years, and 15 of them selling them to people, a part in the Benito Juárez neighborhood and another here in the historic Center, where people stop to buy them
The price, of 10 pesos for three coquitos, makes it affordable that people do not hesitate to give themselves the pleasure of trying them. Especially those whose flavor already conquered them.
Doña Juana says that cocoyol is a fruit that is born in a palm tree, similar to water coconut, but that is distinguished by its small size.
The product that is sold in Mazatlan is brought from Nayarit, where it is harvested, to later be distributed to different parts of the country, especially to southern states of the Mexican Republic, where it is highly demanded.
Precisely, this November the harvest season of the tiny fruit has just begun, which can be seen in the stores after 10 months.
In the Mazatlan, cocoyol reaches few fruit and vegetable stores in the Pino Suárez markets, in the first square of the city, and Miguel Hidalgo, in the Juarez neighborhood.
A little history
Cocoyol is not exclusive to Mexico, as there are countries in Central and South America where there are trees that give such fruit, such as Costa Rica, Colombia, Paraguay, and Brazil.
In Mexico, it is the southern states where there is a greater influx of this product, which was widely consumed by the Mayan population that inhabited Quintana Roo and Yucatan.
Specialists in biology point out that the seed of this type of fruit takes 4 to 5 years to germinate so that its development is slow to start producing.
Although in the northern part of Mexico there is no record of cocoyol crops, in the south the trees begin to bear fruit precisely almost in the time it takes to be born.
A plant can have up to 12 clusters, an amount that will generate an average of 700 coquitos per branch, which is productive for those who are dedicated to this type of planting.
According to producers, a cocoyol tree per year can produce a maximum of 100 kilos of fruit and a minimum of 50, quantities that are considered good within a season.
In addition to being consumed as a sweet, the fruit is sought to counteract the appearance of worms through the simple chewing of its seed. In addition, in some southern states, it is used to fight diabetes.
A whole process
When she goes to the market, Dona Juana buys up to 200 coquitos, and once she arrives at her house she carries out one of the most difficult processes for the preparation of sweet cocoyoles, cleaning.
You have to clean them, the shell is very hard, my daughter helps me, like my son-in-law, because it is a can to do it, because there have been occasions that if we are not careful, we even cut ourselves
Once clean, he adds, the fruit is placed inside pots and piloncillo is placed, so that it grabs a sweet consistency through its cooking.
The cocoyol is ready when its rich smell ceases to be perceived. That’s when Dona Juana is ready.
In one day she sells up to 200 cocoyoles, although there are occasions that he has between 50 and 100, especially when for some reason there were not so many people on the streets of the Center. However, those that remain are sold in their neighborhoods.
And not only the Mazatlecos come to look for her for their cocoyoles, because
Visitors are surprised to buy the coco honey, because they say that this type of fruit reminds them of their childhood, because at that time there was not as much candy as today
She says she is happy to know that her product is taken by tourists to other parts of the country, and even to the United States.
Its maximum challenge is that the new generations know and fall in love with cocoyoles, so that the candy is still alive, not only in the memory of those who have tried them, but also in their palates.
They are coquitos enmielados that in their interior have cocoyole pulp, which is reached after being tasting on the palate the peculiar flavor that gives the cooked piloncillo.
Doña Juana has a Facebook page (Cocoyoles Mazatlán), in which she shares with the new generations the tradition of the sweet that in the 80’s was a sensation among the Mazatlecos.
Source: el sol de mazatlan
The Mazatlan Post