Get a taste of traditional Sinaloa with a stop in El Changuirongo (21 de Marzo 1326, Centro), a seafood joint close to the seafront that serves aguachile, a fiery local specialty made with raw prawns seasoned with lime, chile, onion, cucumber, and avocado. It’s also worth visiting La Puntilla on the seafront to try its signature dish, pescado zarandeado: freshly caught fish grilled with a coating of garlic and spices.
When in Mazatlán, I’ve often stayed at Captain Moe’s , a pet-friendly B&B run by a retired American couple who serve fantastic breakfasts. If you prefer a hotel, then the well-regarded Quality Inn.
After a few days in Mazatlán take the overnight ferry across the Sea of Cortez to La Paz.
Baja Ferries has departures every Wednesday, Friday and Sunday evening including a meal and basic seating. A cabin with four beds and a private bathroom costs are additional, while there’s a charge for bringing a car. The journey takes 13 hours. La Paz
A laid-back seaside town with an arid climate, La Paz is a cheaper, more relaxing alternative to the spring-break resorts of Los Cabos, further south. A tour to Isla Espiritu Santo, one of 244 desert islands that form a Unesco biosphere reserve, is recommended. Covered in cacti and set against turquoise waters, this is an uninhabited, alien-looking landscape. Tours also take in the adjacent Isla Partida, home to Playa Ensenada Grande, a glorious cove of white sand and, in my opinion, a contender for Mexico’s most beautiful beach.
It doesn’t take long to see why French explorer Jacques Cousteau dubbed the Sea of Cortez “the world’s aquarium”. On my way to the islands, dolphins leaped alongside our boat and sea lions peered through its glass bottom. Then a whale shark, the world’s biggest fish, surfaced a few meters away. Assured by our guide that these giants are harmless, I grabbed a snorkel and jumped overboard for a closer look. Its great tail fin appeared before me. Awestruck, I managed to trail the shark for a few moments before it disappeared into the depths.
To fill up after a long day at sea, visit unfussy
Mc-Fisher, which serves excellent fish tacos, including marlin, swordfish and manta ray. As for accommodation, HBlue Hotel is comfortable and centrally located, with a rooftop pool and bar where you can watch the sunset over the waterfront.
Before continuing up the coast, surfers will want to take a day trip to the windswept town of Todos Santos on the Pacific side of the peninsula. Home to some of Mexico’s best breaks, the surrounding beaches are ideal for beginners and advanced surfers.
A 220-mile journey north of La Paz lies Loreto, a quaint town sandwiched between the Sea of Cortez and the Sierra de la Giganta. Founded in 1697 by a Jesuit missionary intent on evangelizing the nomadic indigenous population, Loreto is the oldest settlement on the peninsula. It is one of 111 Pueblos Mágicos (magical towns) that Mexico has recognized for their natural beauty, cultural value or historical significance.
Loreto’s Museo de las Misiones house a collection of religious artwork, weapons, tools, and crafts but the most iconic vestige of the colonial era is the
Viggé Biaundó Mission, an hour’s drive south-west of town. Built in 1699, this stone chapel is remarkably well preserved and there is even a gnarled, 300-year-old olive tree still standing in its gardens.
Loreto’s beaches are quiet, with gorgeous views and palm-thatched gazebos for shade. Popular activities include fishing, kayaking, scuba diving, birdwatching, hiking the surrounding hills or simply strolling the town’s cobbled streets and pristine waterfront.
Almejas Conchó, a palm-roofed shack renowned for its chocolate clams, is one of the best places to eat. Named after the color of their shells, the clams are a local delicacy. The menu also features ceviche, prawn cocktails, and seafood burritos.
Las Cabañas de Loreto has well-equipped studio cabins that sleep up to four (three-night minimum stay). For those planning a shorter visit, Hacienda Suites is a mock-colonial hotel with an inviting pool in its central courtyard and air-conditioned rooms.
ABC and Aguila offer half a dozen coach services from La Paz to Loreto every day. The journey takes about five hours. San Ignacio
Halfway up the peninsula, San Ignacio is a palm oasis town in the desert. Home to about 700 people, the village is beside a lake fed by fresh springs and one of the region’s few rivers. Its clustered date palms and citrus orchards make a refreshing change from their barren surroundings.
The area’s main attraction is the San Ignacio lagoon, which serves as a winter sanctuary, nursery and breeding ground for eastern Pacific grey whales. The whales migrate from northern Alaska every year to mate and give birth in the lagoon’s warm, shallow waters. These enormous creatures often seek human contact, with mothers and calves allowing small boatloads of tourists to touch their barnacle-covered skin. Between December and April is the best time to experience this.
It’s also worth taking a trip into the mountains to see the ancient cave paintings in sites such as the Cueva del Ratón. Depicting humans, deer, hares and mountain lions, these Unesco-listed paintings are thought to be at least 2,000 years old.
Kuyima, a local tour operator, offers several excursions to see the whales and cave paintings.
The La Huerta hotel, San Ignacio
La Huerta, a new hotel with immaculate grounds and spacious rooms, is a great accommodation option. Elsewhere, Ignacio Springs B&B has a selection of yurts. It’s run by a Canadian couple and guests can make free use of its kayaks. If you fancy a break from Mexican seafood, Tootsie’s Bar and Grill serves barbecue ribs, pizza and a range of vegan and vegetarian options.
Aguila runs two daily coach services from Loreto to San Ignacio. It’s a five-hour journey.
Beach at Ensenada, Mexico.
Ensenada is around 60 miles south of the US border and the gateway to Mexico’s booming wine region, the Guadalupe Valley. Dirt roads wind through the rolling hills where more than 100 wineries are scattered alongside a growing number of upscale restaurants and eco-lodges. Dozens of wine tours operate from Ensenada, while
Uber recently launched its own service, charging 25usd for a round trip, plus 10usd for every hour that your driver waits as you tour the rustic vineyards.
Ensenada is also at the forefront of “
Baja Med”, a burgeoning culinary movement that combines traditional ingredients with Mediterranean and Asian influences. Restaurants such as Finca Altozano, Corazón de Tierra, and La Esperanza are trendsetters, with typical dishes including braised octopus, tempura fish tacos, chipotle oysters and beetroot carpaccio. Ensenada’s San Diego-influenced craft beer scene is thriving, too, with the Wendlandt and Aguamala brewpubs among its highlights.
Coral & Marina is a seafront hotel with ocean-view balconies and an award-winning restaurant that pairs the latest Baja Med inventions with local wines. A cheaper alternative is Posada El Rey Sol, a colonial-style boutique hotel.
Multiple operators run buses from Ensenada to the border city of Tijuana every 30 minutes for about 8usd. Most rentals will let you drop your car at Tijuana’s airport.